Wednesday 13 October 2010

ethnography




The ethnographic museum at the university of Sao Paulo proved to contain some real treasures. It's collection of ritual objects and costumes is wonderful. The exhibits still exude power even imprisoned in their glass cases and mounted on rather cheap looking dummies. I had to sign a paper saying I wouldn't publish my photos, but I thought I'd sneak one or two into this blog.

Perhaps more interesting and a more telling about indigeneous people's story in Brazil were the walls of the city on my way to the university.
On the walls of a school, a mural depicts the official church version of the civilising process. The graffiti ideographs encroach and the uiquitous red paint bombs of protest shout perhaps for another version of the story, daubing symbolic blood on the patriarch and his pupils.
Further down the road, a second mural on the side of a shop shows an indigenous man bending to pick up bank notes amongst the severed heads of the dead with a bottle marked poison dangling from his hand.

The display of trial objects in the university museum is at least a tribute to their vitality through adversity and ability to retain the power to enthrall and inspire.






Tuesday 12 October 2010

Concrete and ink




The images on the walls of Sao Paulo city are mysterious powerful and polytheistic. The  tags are almost cabalistic looking appearing on the concrete like shamanistic messages to and from the underworld.


Lost indigenous tribes live on on the subway walls.


Street artists quote scripture to the homeless who sleep beneath the flyover.
 "You know for certain that you are the temple of God and the spirit of God lives in you" Cor.3.16

The gods of distant ancestral Africa give voice alongside.

Omolu

 
Omolu or ObaluĆ£e is a shaman-healer orixa connected with mysteries and the fire beneath the earth. He bridges between life and death. His equivalent in Catholicism is Saint Lazarus. 

The recipients of his spirit in this ceremony are covered in popcorn, the food associated with him. They symbolise small pox which his legend says he contracted as a child.